Farming Risks and Rewards
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Increase in local farmers and markets a sign of the times.
by Anne Pyburn Craig
Besides being backbreaking, farming is a huge gamble.
Farmers are constantly at the mercy of forces beyond their control. Fortunately
for those of us who like to eat, we're blessed with a good-sized handful of
folks around here who do it anyway.
The state comptroller's office has the stats to prove it: we
are one serious produce-growing region around here. Even relatively thickly
settled Orange County is one of New York's top producers of veggies. Ulster
County is second in apple production. Need a beverage with that? The region's
got 39 wineries.
And in so many ways it shapes our reality. Deborah DeWan,
executive director of the Rondout Valley Growers Association, points out that
when local farmers do their thing we harvest much more than food.
“Supporting local farming keeps our soil protected and our
carbon footprint smaller, and preserves all that lovely open space,” DeWan
says. “And between agriculture and agritourism, it's about at the top of the
local economy. It's a multiplier. I think that speaks volumes about the soil
around here and the people who work it.”
Opportunities to feast on this bounty are abundant at this
time of year. Local farm stands are bursting with the fruits of the harvest and
the wonders created from them, from baked goods to artisanal cheeses and
infused oils. More than a few offer pick-your-own opportunities, corn mazes,
and other ways to make your grocery expedition about so much more than simply
stocking the fridge.
“I think one of the things that's working is how much people
enjoy the experience,” says DeWan. “Whether they go picking and get their hands
right on the source, or just visit a stand or market, they feel connected to
their food in a way you don't get at a chain store.”
After the trauma experienced when thousands of dollars of
carefully nurtured crops were ravaged by Hurricanes Irene and Lee (remember all
those floating pumpkins?) it's been a comparatively benevolent season.
“I think the harvest is bountiful this year and we are very
fortunate and grateful,” says DeWan. “That said, some of our fruit growers are
having a somewhat less stellar season. There was a cold snap last spring after
a warm spell, so apple and pear trees were tricked into budding and then froze.
The results vary from orchard to orchard; it's a mixed bag. But what is being
produced is outstanding. And this is prime apple picking time—go grab your
stash while you can whether you pick them yourself or hit a stand.”
Many communities have centralized farm markets where you can
partake of the wares of a group of growers in one place. “Farm markets are just
exploding,” says DeWan. “I think there is a growing awareness of food safety
and the food stream in general and that helps.”
So does the fact that market organizers are a creative lot,
bringing in music, art and kids' entertainment. Vibrant markets exist in towns
from Woodstock to Marlboro, bringing the growers to the people and the people
to the growers, reviving the time-honored concept of the market square with a
healthy new twist.
Several farm markets, taking advantage of advances in
growing techniques and heightened public interest, keep their farm markets
going all year long. “There are new innovations that extend the growing season
even here in the Northeast,” DeWan says. “Winter markets are growing
accordingly.”
DeWan is especially excited about the newest market, and
with good reason. Kingston powers-that-be, and citizens, wrung their hands
about what to do with the empty lot created by tearing down a derelict eyesore
of a welfare motel, the Kings' Inn, that had blighted Midtown for years. Then
the farmers' market folks stepped in.
“Some of our members have been going to the new market in Midtown
and they say the community has really responded,” says DeWan. “People can use
their SNAP [food stamp] benefits there and purchase good fresh food. That's one
of the RVGA's goals, to partner with the various initiatives that work to get
food to the underserved. It's an ongoing conversation.”
Vendors offering their wares at the Midtown market, which
will be ongoing every Tuesday in October, include: Highland Farm, Perez Market
Farm, Rexcroft Farm, Slow Roots Farm, Wright's Farm, Abe's Falafel, Al Andaluz
Catering Co., All You Knead Artisan Bakers, Block Factory Tamales, DFC
Distributors featuring olive oil, Keegan Ales, and El Donzante Food Truck.
The Midtown market is a spinoff of the hugely successful one
that takes over part of the uptown Stockade every Saturday morning. Organizers'
pride is showing on their website: “The duration of the Market in its inaugural
year was scheduled for four months, June through September. Due to the
immediate, overwhelming demand for more time, the Market quickly shifted gears
and remained open through October. Now in its eleventh year, the Market opens
Memorial Weekend and ends the weekend prior to Thanksgiving to allow people to
shop locally for fresh items for the holiday. The Kingston Farmers’ Market
began with 12 vendors. The Market now has well over 30 vendors...The Kingston
Farmers’ Market hosts from between 1,000 to almost 2,000 visitors weekly.”
A recent innovation is farmiemarket.com,
an online service working to build a local presence by signing local growers up
for its “virtual market.” Customers can order online and have their orders
delivered. Farmiemarket tends, at this point, toward the artisanal and niche
products, which command a pretty price.
“It's a double-edged sword,” says DeWan. “The farmers
operate on a miniscule margin and need to get a fair price. There are getting
to be quite a few online buying clubs and we're all for anything that connects
farmer to consumer. At the same time we need to keep local products and healthy
organic foods accessible. Eating healthier makes a huge difference in people’s
lives.”
The RVGA's website offers a “What's Pickin'” guide that will
tell you where to find what you're hankerin' for, whether it is grass-fed beef,
hormone-free chicken, the makings of a fruit salad, or this year's Halloween
pumpkin.
“We're a small organization—only about 60 members—but
incredibly diverse and with the benefit of the outrageously rich Rondout Valley
soil,” DeWan says. “One thing that I love is that our membership is so varied.
We have family operations like the Schoonmakers, who have been farming for twelve
generations, and the Davenports and the Kelders, legacy operations. Then we
have new growers, CSAs [community supported agriculture], niche operations who
may have been around for ten years or may be just starting. And what is really
neat is watching everyone work together sharing knowledge and expertise. The
longtime farmers are a great resource for the ones just starting out, and the
general attitude is that there's always room for another farm. There's a rising
tide, what you might call a cross pollination between the generations—old
operations and the new CSAs.
“That's a big piece of what we're about, farmer-to-farmer
networking, building the community across all facets of agriculture, bringing
farmers together to meet and learn what they have in common and what assets
might be complementary. If this tradition is to survive on this fertile soil,
we need that kind of cohesion.”
When two of Ulster County's most helpful organizations, the
Cornell Cooperative Extension and Family of Woodstock, need dollars, as they
very much do in the current economic climate, it is to the farmers that they
turn. The first annual Hudson Valley Harvest Festival was held on the third
weekend in September at the county fairgrounds, and the new endeavor drew high
profile sponsors, top-notch local musicians, and crowds. RVGA was there, of
course. “We're very much involved in the Farm to Food Pantry initiative and
with Family of Woodstock. We made fresh corn chowder with Rondout Valley corn,”
DeWan says.
Advocating for local food and local farms is satisfying work
as awareness grows. “People are becoming more tuned-in to where their food
comes from, the varieties, the seasonal changes,” DeWan says. “It's wonderful.
We are so blessed to live in a breadbasket here, a cornucopia. Everyone should
take advantage of it. It helps all of us in so many ways."
Right now the RVGA is raising money to match a $25,000
challenge grant from the New World Foundation; they've got until the end of the
year and are hoping the community will maintain the wonderful Ulster County
tradition of stepping up. There is a “love farmers” button on their website,
rondoutvalleygrowers.org, where you can donate before or after snooping out the
“What's Pickin'” page to make your grocery list. “Get to know your farmers,”
DeWan advises. “Come out to a market or a farm, volunteer at an event, or just
'like' us on Facebook. Everything helps.”
Posted by Chris Hewitt
on 2:24 PM.
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