Complexity of Pinot Grigio a Mirror of Its People
by Bella Volchik
Pinot Grigio is an exceptional wine. Crisp, clean—can be
racy—and full of flavors. What should you do to find whether one is worth your
attention?
Well, go to Venice, but be careful
not to turn south to Rome. Keep north, east, and up to Tyrolean villages, among
snowy peaks and along the coast to the border port of Trieste. A step further
and you are in Austria and Slovenia; stretch your arm and you are in Germany,
Switzerland, and Croatia.
This region produces the best white
wines of Italy. They are classic and imaginative. They are made on a crossroads
of winemaking cultures. These wines are made with great precision. They are
quite different from the wines from Alsace; the techniques of northern Italy’s
wine production elevate local grapes to the elegance of the noblest Riesling or
Burgundy. Please spare me from all the talk about Santa Margarita and Cavit!
You have watched too many ads.
You may experience, within in a
taste, cool climate, high altitude, rocky streams, and German techniques, but
the complexity comes from the region’s unique human character, history, and mix
of nationalities. The people who live in the area are survivors. The characters
and blood in their veins remember Julius Caesar, the crusaders, Napoleon, two
world wars, and constantly changing borders, alliances, and ideologies.
The people of the region are
practical, independent, and flexible. The geography of Pinot Grigio can be very
confusing. It’s along the Adige River and in the region of Trentino Alto Adige,
bordering Austria. It also stretches to the East Friuli Giulia,which stretches
along Slovenia from the mountains and foothills down to plains along the
Adriatic.
When browsing the shelves of the
wine shop, forget Italian and look for the names that sound German or Slavic:
Zemmer, Jermann, Tramin, Attems, Hofstatter, Kupelwieser, Damijan, and
Schiopetto. The best bottles of Pinot Grigio are from small wineries, with the
most prized coming from Alto Adige and Friuli, especially the Colli/Collio
hills. The heirloom grapes meet human savvy and innovation in the winery. A
full range of techniques are used, from big Slovenian oak tanks to gleaming
stainless steel, to vinify the wine to the winemaker’s taste.
Here, more than anywhere else in the
world, winemakers combine modern techniques with ancient ways. Friuli’s most
imaginative winemaker, Josko Gravner, gave up on modern stainless steel 20
years ago and switched to small oak barrels. In recent years he has used
amphora, huge clay urns from biblical times that he buries in the earth where
the wine ferments and ages on its own.
Pinot Grigio is more than the
best-known Italian white. Most buyers know little more than the most heavily
advertised brands. If you will look beyond those brands, your money will buy
more quality than marketing. Just keep in mind geography. Read labels carefully
and look for a traditional home in northeastern Italy like Trentino, Alto
Adige, and Colli, most specifically Collio. Expect to spend $10 to $25 more
than for cheap refrigerator white.
I recommend drinking fresh, recent
vintages; older vintages tend to lose the brilliant color and the taste becomes
dull. It does not mean Pinots cannot be aged for a few years, but in my experiences,
for the best results, drink recent vintages of Pinot Grigio. Styles will range
from bright and crisp to ripe and round, the flavors are of fresh apples,
pears, and some peaches, with spice and mineral sparkle.
It is because of its geography that
this wine matches many foods that aren’t classically Italian. It is paired with
cabbage, Savoy, cooked craut, apples, prosciutto, asparagus, beans, and beet
salads. Polenta is a staple, and the best pastas are agnolotti dumplings filled
with raisins and pears. Don’t forget strudels and hearty soups. Serve very cold
and try with smoked meats, pork, hard cheeses, freshwater fish, and shellfish.
Bon appetite and remember, Life is a Matter of
Taste!
Posted by Chris Hewitt
on 11:34 AM.
Filed under
Beer & Wine
.
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